Now that I’ve made a raised wooden platform for the play yurt,
a beaten earth platform with dry-stone retaining wall for our 18-foot yurt,
an 18-foot beaten earth platform with woven chestnut retaining fence for our first guest yurt,
a wooden platform for our second 18-foot yurt,
and a second 18-foot earth platform on a slope for our second guest yurt,
I feel qualified to write a fairly definitive guide to how to build a yurt platform. I’ll be happy to answer questions if anything needs clarification, time permitting.
Before I started my latest platform, I bought:
o Thirty 2.5-metre lengths of rough 7.5 cm by 4 cm douglas fir from a nearby woodyard
o A six-litre tin of treatment against wood-boring insects
o 27 square metres of pine flooring, 23 mm thick, 10 cm wide and 2 m long
o A five-litre tin of protective treatment for the finished floor – oil with a white pigment
o A box of 200 screws 70 mm long, 5 mm wide
o A box of nails 40 mm long, 2 mm wide
On day one, I laid down and levelled the floor joists 61 cm apart, and screwed noggings between them to strengthen the frame.
I was lucky enough to have almost level ground to work on, and some old tiles and bits of wood lying around. Levelling an area like this takes a huge amount of work and is covered in other posts.
On day two, I joined the ends of the joists, trying to get these outside noggings as close to the finished edge as possible.
The weight of the yurt will be resting on this edge, which is why I put supports at the top, bottom and sides.
An important point here, in capital letters: THE FINISHED FLOOR FOR AN 18-FOOT COPPICED YURT IS 18 FEET 4 INCHES – the 18 feet is in the internal measurement. If you are using sawn timber, just add the wall width on both sides to your internal finished size.
On day three, I started laying the floor, aiming for as little wastage as possible, pre-drilling holes diagonally through the tongues wherever the boards crossed a joist.
This is what I can do in about 10 hours working alone.
On day four, I finished laying the floor while Her Outdoors applied the first layer of oil. Unfortunately, the oil had an eight to 12-hour drying time between coats, so this day ended up being quite long too. Rain had appeared on the forecast I use and we were now chasing the weather as so often happens.
On day five, I screwed 10 cm strips of 5 mm ply to the outside edge of the platform.
For some reason this doesn’t come up much in yurt books, or sites talking about yurt platforms, but we find it essential. The edge makes putting the frame up a breeze, doesn’t cost much, cuts down on draughts, holds in the insulation and even stops slugs coming in to eat the cat food.
If you have large items of furniture and small doors like us, you’ll want to move these onto the platform before putting your retaining edges on.
UPDATE
I’ve since discovered you don’t need to pre-drill those holes. Just make sure they are angled nicely into the wood. Saves a bit of time.
October 7, 2011 at 10:28 am
Wow, a labour of love and a thing of beauty too.
October 7, 2011 at 11:33 am
Thanks. It always feels very Andy Goldsworthy.
October 15, 2011 at 1:57 pm
You are a bit of a pro nowadays. Good information that I will no doubt be referring to in the near future. Nice pictures too.Thanks mate!
October 15, 2011 at 6:18 pm
If this is THE Ben of flirtingwithyurting, welcome to the comments section. And yes, I wrote this for you guys.
December 29, 2011 at 6:02 am
good timing. my yurt is up but no floor. thanks.
December 29, 2011 at 8:37 am
No problem, Andrew. Glad to be of service…
August 20, 2014 at 3:50 pm
Hello- I live in Missouri, USA and I really like the look of your platform. But I am wondering about doing this here- with the frost line issue. Because the yurt would be a temporary sort of structure, can I build a similar stone base here on grade without the HARD labor of digging 18″ down for the foundation?
August 20, 2014 at 4:56 pm
It’s a very good question. I guess it depends on many things: What your soil is like, whether you’ll be living in the yurt full time, whether it’s heated etc. I’ve had issues with floors moving round – and I’m quickly going off pine as a floor board, although it’s the cheapest. Also, the unseasoned joists have moved on the floors for the guest yurts and I’ve had to lift the floors and re-lay them. If I had the money, I’d take my time, dig a foundation trench and sandwich the joists with ply underneath and insulation between that and the boards. You might want to think about using pounded tyres (US: tires) like you’d use for the back wall of an Earthship instead of rock or wood pillars. I’m going to try that next year. Not sure what the big issue with the frost line is – I guess moisture getting in and moving the structure. But if it’s all made of wood and flexible, maybe it would all be fine. Sorry not to be more expert – we do everything on the fly and experimentally. Which usually means we have to do it again at least once. Good luck – and if you’re going to be blogging it, send me a link!
August 22, 2014 at 6:48 pm
Thanks for the reply ! Where I am building is in very very rocky clay… so extra hard to dig in… Very little soil around and riddled with rocks from golf ball to football (US) size (cheap land). Digging by hand is rough and it’s very rural so hiring out the job could get expensive.fast!
The pounded tires could be a great idea, I will have to look into that more. I considered them when I was looking into earthships as a structure, but discounted that idea when I found out digging is nigh on impossible there.
This would be a full time structure for a short time- through this year and into next. I am trying my hand at off grid living and need something to get started in that goes up fast, is inexpensive and easy enough to build myself or with a friend or two. Once the spring comes, I won’t mind doing the digging. At the moment it’s the hellish heat of summer and 98 degrees here- no digging is gonna happen anytime soon. Yes, it may be worth blogging about, I’m keeping notes on all happenings just in case! Thanks for the advice! Brandy 🙂
May 28, 2018 at 8:02 pm
I have read about how the wind does not affect a yurt as much as a traditional structure. We are looking at doing a similar foundation to what you have documented above. Would you recommend a hurricane strap to your foundation? Or have you had winds high enough for this to be a concern? We are trying to build our yurt as movable as possible because it will be temporary where it will be at we are between properties and are renting a small lot for two years. Our yurt is a 30′ shelter design yurt and we are in SW VA
May 30, 2018 at 9:52 am
I’ve never had a problem, but have some trees and bamboo to the west of my yurts which is where the wind normally comes from. The form of a yurt, from my reading years ago, is ideal for high winds because there are no flat surfaces to resist the strength of the storm (and be pushed out of the way). Although I remember reading that the roof wheel could be tied to a big rock to make sure the structure doesn’t blow away. When my cover had a star over the wheel, this was attached to heavy rocks, but I don’t use a star any more. You could have something like that for use during storms, which you could then take off. There won’t always be storms – and you will know when they’re coming, so will have plenty of time to batten down the hatches.